Car Hire: Take advantage of the special easyJet inflight rates. Visit the Europcar desk on arrival or call +33 (0)8 2506 2124. Open from 7.30am-11pm Monday-Friday and 8.30am-11pm at the weekend.

Airport Transfer: Pre-book your door-to-door transfer with easyJet’s transfer partner, Holiday Taxis—from home to the airport, then city or resort (easyjet.holidaytaxis.com).

Taxi: A journey to the centre of town costs about €20 and takes 15 minutes.

Bus: Take the shuttle bus to Place de l'Europe, from there you can take a tram into the heart of town. The two tram lines run every few minutes. Tickets: €4.90 single; €5.40 including the tram. The journey takes 15 minutes.

Le Petit Colbert
( 58 Avenue Marie-de-Montpellier, Port-Marianne. Tel. 04 6799 9359 )
Daily lunch menus, salad, fish and pasta at bargain prices, not to mention delicious teatime brownies. An all-day eatery, it closes in the evening.

Bistro d'Alco
( 4 Rue Bonnier-d'Alco. Tel. 04 6763 1289 )
Roast camembert, chicken in cream sauce, nougat glacé—this is a seriously good-value lunch. Get there no later than noon to be sure of getting a table.

La Closerie
( Hôtel Métropole, 3 Rue du Clos René. Tel. 04 6712 3232 )
Sophisticated décor, courteous service and classic cuisine, including snails and seafood. There's also a swimming pool for customers.

Les Gourmands
( Avenue Saint-Lazare. Tel. 04 6772 8276 )
Special menus, fabulous cooking and a whole lobster menu at €55 (plus wine and service) pulls in the crowds. Book ahead.

Le Circus
( 3 Rue Collot. Tel. 04 6760 4205 )
On a rainy autumn evening sneak into Le Circus in the early evening, grab a snug leather armchair and soak up some R&B.

L'Inédit
( 47 Rue Chaptal . Tel. 04 6792 0240 )
The venue and location are unremarkable but the programming is extraordinary: anything from café-theatre and jazz to improv sessions. Expect the unexpected.

La Croiserie
( Espace Latipolia, Route de Palavas, Lattes. Tel. 04 6764 1952 )
Open Thursday-Saturday from 11pm till early dawn, this uniquely Montpellier venue attracts all ages and styles with disco and French pop. A must-experience all-nighter.

Madame Klein Frangologue is where you get classy second-hand designer clobber (les frangues) chosen for you by a style expert who is ready to refresh your entire look (14 Rue Sainte-Anne. Tel. 04 6791 0699).

Forget expensive spas, head to the authentic Oasis hammam and luxe out for less. Follow the steam rooms with a black soap massage (12 Rue Cope Combes. Tel. 04 6760 9822).

Take the number nine bus out to the north of the city to Lunaret and visit the Amazonian Greenhouse, complete with snakes and jungle rain every 30 minutes. Take a break in the café before heading into the zoo (free entrance) to see the monkeys.

The 60th Foire Internationale de Montpellier this year features Morocco. Demonstrations, food tasting, concerts, films, exhibitions, it'll all be there. Prepare to be amazed (10-20 October. Le Parc des Expositions).

Aigues-Mortes – A short bus or train trip away, this famous walled citadel is partying this month. There's no better time to walk the ramparts, lean on the ancient stones and watch the crowds go by (4-12 & 17-19 October).

There is an astonishing 150 kilometres of cycle paths in Montpellier.

Compiled by Samantha David