Bon Appetit

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• Le Grand Café read more ›
  (65 Cours Intendance. Tel. 05 5652 6110)
  A large terrace on one of the most luxurious shopping streets in Bordeaux makes this perfect for a cup of coffee and some serious people-watching.
• L'Echappée Belle read more ›
  (41 Rue du Pas St Georges. Tel. 05 5644 4079)
  A friendly English/French couple run this café in the pedestrianised Old Town of Bordeaux. They offer a wide range of coffees, teas and cakes.
• Comptoir 15 read more ›
  (Hangar 15, Quai de Bacalan. Tel. 05 5601 2899)
  Quick and easy. Sit around a large bar and order a range of hot and cold tartines (a kind of open sandwich). It's in a good setting overlooking the river - and WiFi is available, too.
• El Asador read more ›
  (7 Quai de la Monnaie. Tel. 05 5633 1153)
  Cheap and cheerful Spanish-themed restaurant on the River Garonne.
• Tearoom, Musée des Arts Décoratifs read more ›
  (39 Rue Bouffard. Tel. 05 5652 6049)
  Great for a quick refuelling stop but phone ahead as opening hours are irregular. It does good tea and cakes, and on sunny days you can eat outside in the beautiful cobbled courtyard.
• Sushi Shop read more ›
  (24 Rue du Dr Nancel Pénard. Tel. 08 2556 8888)
  This sushi takeaway place offers an excellent range of food, attractively presented. Well located by Place Gambetta, you can easily spend a lot of money here, but it's also perfectly possible to be restrained.

• Café Japonnais read more ›
  (22 Rue St Simeon. Tel. 05 5648 6868)
  If you want a break from French food, Bordeaux has some excellent Japanese restaurants. This popular place is on a lively square in the Old Town - get there early to get a table. It serves great sushi and sashimi at reasonable prices.
• Café de l'Esperance read more ›
  (10 Rue de l'Esplanade, Bouliac. Tel. 05 5620 5216)
  Run by the team behind the Relais & Châteaux hotel Le St James, in the hills above Bordeaux, but the atmosphere - and prices - couldn't be more different. Down-to-earth, traditional food and excellent value.
• Le Divan read more ›
  (67 Cours de Verdun. Tel. 05 5679 3373)
  Now in the hands of a château owner/wine merchant, meaning there is a small, well-chosen wine list to complement the intimate (read: tiny) setting, good music and very reasonably priced food.
• La Brasserie de Sud Ouest read more ›
  (275 Cours de la Somme. Tel. 05 5692 0306)
  As the name suggests, this relaxed and welcoming place concentrates on hearty regional cooking: expect lots of duck, steak and a good wine list.
• L'Entrecote read more ›
  (4 Cours de XXX Juillet. Tel. 05 5681 7610)
  Pretty much the most popular restaurant in town. Don't expect a gourmet menu with lots of choice-instead, you'll get succulent steak frites with lots of red wine-and a queue if you're not early.
• Tango Tango read more ›
  (7 Rue Fernand Philippart. Tel. 05 5681 9650)
  Argentinian steak restaurant next to Place de la Bourse, offering a range of Chilean and South African wines.

• Le Cinq read more ›
  (5 Allées de Tourny. Tel. 05 5787 3650)
  Centrally located near the Grand Theatre, Le Cinq has a smart, design-led interior and excellent menu that features seasonal food served with great imagination. Good wine list.
• La Salle a Manger read more ›
  (18 Rue Saint Joseph. Tel. 06 1001 1877)
  Small bistro that's popular with those in the know in the heart of Chartrons, where excellent fresh food changes regularly, depending on what is available at the market. Only open at lunchtime on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday.
• Le Bateau Lavoir read more ›
  (65 Quai des Chatrons. Tel. 05 5787 5669)
  The emphasis is on fish but there's also a variety of good meat dishes. Buzzing atmosphere and the walls are used as gallery space, showcasing local and international artists.
• Le Gravalier read more ›
  (114 Cours de Verdun. Tel. 05 5648 1715)
  Small but perfectly formed restaurant serving excellent quality food and imaginative menus.
• La Venus de Brassempouy read more ›
  (23 Rue Neuve. Tel. 05 5601 2848)
  With vaulted ceilings and a real fire in colder weather, it serves traditional food as well as tapas in the small wine bar.
• Le Chipot read more ›
  (281 Rue des Quatre Castera, Begles. Tel. 05 5685 6241)
  You have to drive slightly out of the main centre, but you will be rewarded by wonderfully fresh seafood or enormous steaks, cooked over an open fire.

• Le Pavillon de Boulevards read more ›
  (120 Rue Croix de Seguey. Tel. 05 5681 5102)
  Renowned local chef Denis Franc specialises in thought-provoking food at this Michelin-starred restaurant. Looks very low key from the outside, but it's a great restaurant and worth taking a trip out to the busy boulevards.
• Au Bonheur du Palais read more ›
  (74 Rue Paul Louis Lande. Tel. 05 5694 3863)
  Widely renowned Chinese restaurant specialising in excellent-quality Szechuan cuisine. Always busy, so make sure you book ahead.
• Le Wy read more ›
  (Winery de Philippe Raoux, Arsac. Tel. 05 5639 0491)
  About 15 minutes' drive north of Bordeaux, into the Médoc, this gourmet restaurant is part of a large and striking wine complex with boutique and exhibition space. Chef Olivier Garnier creates truly excellent food, and there's an expectedly comprehensive wine list, with plenty from outside of Bordeaux.
• La Grand'Vignes read more ›
  (Les Sources de Caudalie, Chemin de Smith Haut Lafitte. )
  Gourmet restaurant at the hotel-spa Les Sources de Caudalie, about 10 minutes from the city centre. Chef Franck Salein works his magic on local seasonal ingredients such as oysters from Arcachon Bay, or milk-fed lamb from Pauillac.
• Dubern read more ›
  (42 Allées de Tourny. Tel. 05 5651 3283)
  A classic seafood restaurant that has a loyal following and offers a great menu that changes regularly depending on the day's catch.
• La Table de Didier Gelineau read more ›
  (34 Rue Huguerie. Tel. 05 5651 3283)
  Contemporary food created by one of Bordeaux's best-regarded chefs. The menu changes every two months and relies heavily on the best seasonal ingredients.

After Dark

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• Le Bar Cave de la Monnaie read more ›
  (34 Rue Porte de la Monnaie. Tel. 05 5631 1233)
  Offers a large selection of wines (mainly Bordeaux Côtes) by the glass, good-value snacks made from local cheeses and hams, all served by friendly staff.
• Brasserie du Passage read more ›
  (14-15 Place Canteloup, Saint Michel. Tel. 05 5691 2036)
  A classic low-key spot, complete with long marble-topped bar, big mirrors, plenty of shiny brass, and a great range of wines and beers.
• The Charles Dickens read more ›
  (Quai des Douanes. Tel. 06 8411 2517)
  Opened earlier this year, this friendly and well-located English pub hosts quiz nights, happy hours and shows live sport on TV.
• Grand Bar Castan read more ›
  (2 Quai de la Douane. Tel. 05 5644 5197)
  An institution that has recently benefited from a bit of a makeover. Outside seating overlooks the quays and Garonne River.
• Chez Pompon read more ›
  (4 Cours du Verdun. Tel. 05 5652 5492)
  Every Thursday night this bar turns into a wine bar that's open late and seems to attract a large proportion of young Bordeaux winemakers.
• L'Avant Scene read more ›
  (42 Cours de l'Yser. Tel. 05 5787 5588)
  Relaxed and comfortable bar in the station area. There's a real fire to warm you up on cold winter evenings.

• Blueberry read more ›
  (61 Rue Camille Sauvageau. Tel. 05 5694 1687)
  Popular jazz bar in Sainte Croix, with live music five times a week. The tiny space is perfect for soulful jazz singers, as you are practically on stage with them.
• Chez Alricq read more ›
  (Quai des Queyries. Tel. 05 5686 5849)
  On the Bastide (Right Bank) side of Bordeaux, this lively restaurant hosts live music most nights and really comes into its own on hot June evenings.
• Chez Alricq read more ›
  (Quai des Queyries. Tel. 05 5686 5849)
  A number of live music venues in Bordeaux have shut in recent months. But this restaurant is still going strong and still-loved by those in the know. Beside the river, it offers live music most weekends.
• Chez le Pépère read more ›
  (19 Rue Georges Bonnac. Tel. 05 5644 7179)
  Live music every Friday night at this easy-going wine bar that covers bottles from all over the south-west of France.
• Heretic Club read more ›
  (58 Rue du Mirail. Tel. 05 5692 7990)
  A live music venue that hosts a variety of French and international acts most weekends.
• Casa Latina read more ›
  (59 Quai de Chartrons. Tel. 05 5787 1580)
  Salsa is the order of the day at this well-located bar and live music venue. You can also buy music at the well-stocked shop.

• Blush read more ›
  (53 Rue de la Faïancerie. Tel. 06 1984 5809)
  A large decked terrace at the back, complete with a small pool, makes this a great choice for hot summer nights. Located in the industrial setting of Bacalan and the Bassins a Flots, hard house is the music of choice.
• Blush read more ›
  (53 Rue de la Faïancerie. Tel. 06 1984 5809)
  Tucked away in the industrial heartland of Bacalan, opposite the Bassins à Flot, this is a seriously glamorous club once you get inside. On a hot summer's night, there's a large decked seating area at the back, with a small pool.
• BHV read more ›
  (4 Rue de l'Hotel de Ville. Tel. 05 5644 0508)
  This popular and lively gay bar starts off fairly low-key, but if you stick around for long enough it's sure to go late into the night.
• Absolut Lounge read more ›
  (14 Rue de la Devise. Tel. 05 5648 8000)
  Good cocktails ensure this place stays lively until the early hours (open from 5pm-2am). Other specialities include a wide variety of schnapps.
• The Blueberry read more ›
  (61 Rue Camille Sauvageau. Tel. 05 5694 1687)
  For a sophisticated take on late-night drinking, try this bar that runs the gamut of jazz, blues and flamenco. Often the music is live, but even if not, there is a great atmosphere.
• El Bodegan read more ›
  (14 Place de la Victoire. Tel. 05 5694 7402)
  A lively bar in the student area. You can pretty much guarantee a good atmosphere until the early hours of the morning.

This month...

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Tips

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