Bon Appetit

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• Bar Mleczny Sloneczny read more ›
  (60 Ulica Abrahama, Gdynia. Tel. 058 620 5316)
  For the classic Polish communist experience, head for this bare-bones mleczny (milk bar) to enjoy potatoes, cabbage and various chops of meat.
• Zlota Rybka read more ›
  (50-51 Ulica Piwna. Tel. 058 301 3924)
  A selection of creatures from the deep, all fished out of the Baltic hours earlier, are cooked and served in a cafeteria-style environment.
• Kwadrans read more ›
  (20 Skwer Kosciuszki, Gdynia. Tel. 058 620 1592)
  Pick and point at your choice of pizza, pastas and Polish staples at this bargain-priced bistro.
• Anker read more ›
  (50 Al Marsz Pilsudskiego, Gdynia. Tel. 58 661 3077)
  Regularly crammed with students, families and local celebrities, the ever-packed plastic tables are testament to the quality of pizzas shipped out from the kitchen.
• Green Way read more ›
  (11 Ulica Dluga, Gdansk. Tel. 058 301 8228)
  Poland can be a challenge for vegetarians but, for the tastiest herbivorous option in town, head to the cramped quarters of Green Way.
• Pizza Brawa read more ›
  (18 Ulica Grunwaldzka, Sopot. Tel. 058 551 2539)
  No more than an eat-and-run smattering of cafeteria chairs and tables, Brawa nevertheless manages to turn out some of the area's tastiest pizzas.

• Bar Przystañ read more ›
  (11 Al Wojska Polsk, Sopot. Tel. 058 555 0661)
  Little more than a cafeteria, Bar Prysztan has nevertheless gained a mythical status as one of Poland's best places to snack on fresh fish. Swimmers and sunbathers pile in to enjoy a selection of seafood on the alfresco wooden tables.
• Kuchnia Rosyjska read more ›
  (11 Ulica Dlugi Targ. Tel. 058 301 2735)
  Expect Russian classics at a restaurant where the interior is modelled on Babushka's dacha. If the weather has perked up, take advantage of the prime people-watching location on Gdansk's main drag.
• Kansai Sushi Bar read more ›
  (124-125 Ulica Ogarna, Gdansk. Tel. 058 324 0888)
  Expertly prepared sushi served inside an authentic wooden interior by friendly staff togged up like the Karate Kid.
• Targ Rybny read more ›
  (6C Ulica Targ Rybny. Tel. 58 320 9011)
  Styled like a traditional fishermen's tavern, Targ Rybny's wooden interior is the perfect place to taste fish pulled from the ocean just hours earlier.
• Karczma Irena read more ›
  (36 Ulica Chopina, Sopot. Tel. 058 551 2073)
  Feast-sized Polish fare, served inside a spacious country-style log cabin, complete with roaring log fire and sturdy wooden tables.
• Harnas read more ›
  (9 Ulica Moniuszki, Sopot. Tel. 058 555 1437)
  Tucked away in the Sopot forest, with a wooden interior, roaring fire and raucous crowd. The chef produces gut-busting portions of traditional Polish staples.

• Metamorfoza read more ›
  (22-23 Ulica Szeroka, Gdansk. Tel. 058 320 3030)
  Expect lots of clean lines and sparkling steel inside this slick, minimalist European bistro. Enjoy the taste of the excellent baked veal in sun-dried tomato and mozzarella in one of the city's only restaurants to have banned smoking completely.
• Villa Sedan read more ›
  (18-20 Ulica Pulaskiego . Tel. 058 551 0617)
  Styled on a country villa, Sedan's simple rustic dining room is the stage for expertly executed fish and meat dishes, including a highly recommended spinach and swordfish puff-pastry wrap.
• Taj Mahal read more ›
  (16A Ulica Przebendowskich, Gdynia-Orlowo. Tel. 058 664 9211)
  Excellent interpretations of Indian classics which, thanks to chefs shipped in from India, boast all the firepower of those cooked up in Delhi.
• Estragon read more ›
  (26 Ulica Chlebnicka. Tel. 58 309 1700)
  Right in the heart of the city centre, Estragon offers top-quality international dishes, including a succulent grilled trout, in seductive scarlet-red surroundings crowned by crisp white tablecloths and wrought-iron chandeliers.
• Dobry Adres read more ›
  (21 Ulica 10 Lutego, Gdynia. Tel. 058 661 4621)
  Deep-brown wood panelling and Art Deco designs contribute to the 1920s style. Out of the kitchen come excellent European standards, including a recommended sirloin steak.
• Goldwasser read more ›
  (22 Ulica Dlugie Pobrzeze. Tel. 058 301 8878)
  Set on Gdansk's picturesque riverside, Goldwasser's cosy cottage interior is the perfect place for some top-class, yet laid-back dining. From the kitchen comes gourmet Polish and international dishes, including very tasty duck.

• Gdanska read more ›
  (16-24 Ulica Ducha. Tel. 058 305 7671)
  A palatial interior, full of regal reds and expensive wood, makes Gdanska a truly royal experience. A regular haunt of Lech Walesa and other local luminaries, the expansive restaurant serves up expertly executed, traditional Polish classics such as wild boar.
• Art Deco read more ›
  (12-14 Ulica Powstanców Warszawy. Tel. 058 520 6000)
  Newly opened at the recently renovated Grand Hotel, the restaurant-replete with crisp white linen and impeccable service-is as stylish as the century-old hotel it's housed in. Pick a table by a window for outstanding views of Sopot Pier, while enjoying the award-winning French fusion menu.
• Opatow Palace Restaurant read more ›
  (18 Ulica Cystersow, Gdansk-Oliwa. Tel. 058 524 5699)
  Set inside the baroque Abbot's Palace, Opatow Palace Restaurant is full of warm walnut furnishings and opulent chandeliers is a truly luxurious dining experience. The kitchen matches the setting in turning out outstanding international dishes with local twists, including an excellent flounder in tangy cinnamon sauce.
• Podewils read more ›
  (2 Ulica Szafarnia. Tel. 58 300 9560)
  Set inside the baroque splendor of the Podewils Hotel on the shores of the Motlawa River, Podewils enjoys outstanding views over the romantic riverside. The royal interior, full of coats of arms and tasteful antiques, is the perfect setting for the exceptional international cuisine.
• Villa Uphagena read more ›
  (23 Ulica Uphagena, Gdansk-Wrzeszcz. Tel. 058 345 8372)
  Set inside the lovingly restored, fairy-tale opulence of Villa Uphagena, the restaurant of the same name, is one of the most revered and refined in the city. Light Polish dishes, as well as contemporary interpretations of local Kashubian cuisine, including an excellent pickled pork knuckle, are served inside the elegant dining rooms.
• Salonik read more ›
  (18-21 Ulica Dluga, Gdansk. Tel. 058 322 0044)
  A welcoming interior of scarlet-splashed walls and atmospheric lighting make Salonik one of Gdansk's most desirable restaurants. Wonderful, modern interpretations of Polish cuisine, including a roasted leg of lamb cooked in a delicate vodka sauce.

After Dark

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• Jozef K read more ›
  (4/1B Ulica Kosciuszki, Sopot. Tel. 058 550 4935)
  A weird interior, including tables hanging from the ceiling and a tree in the middle of the room, make for a great place to enjoy a cool beer or slice of cake.
• Enterpub read more ›
  (806 Up Sopot, Al Niepodleglosci. Tel. 051 539 0972)
  Home to a dedicated team of drinkers, the lack of windows in Enterpub seems to keep the party going until long after the sun has risen again.
• Cafe Balsam read more ›
  (66 Ulica Piwna, Gdansk. Tel. 069 708 2357)
  With an eclectic interior, packed with trinkets and forget-me-nots, this is the perfect place to enjoy warm beers and sinking sofas.
• Cafe Ferber read more ›
  (77-78 Ulica Dluga. Tel. 58 301 5566)
  Perfectly placed on Gdansk's main drag for people-watching, Ferber's low-slung couches are a popular spot for cake and coffee.
• Galeria Kinsky read more ›
  (10 Uica Kosciuszki, Sopot. Tel. 058 802 5638)
  In the building that was the birthplace of actor Klaus Kinski, star of Nosferatu, this lively bar attracts a buzzing crowd of locals, keen to try some of the best-value cocktails around.
• Cyganeria read more ›
  (27 Ulica 3 Maja, Gdynia. Tel. 058 699 9015)
  Former home to an assortment of anti-communist agitators, Cyganeria's well-worn couches and run-down interior is now a bolt-hole for the city's arty types.

• Zak read more ›
  (195-197 Al Grundwaldzka, Gdansk Zaspa. Tel. 058 341 9398)
  The area's premier live music venue offers up an eclectic roll call of dancers, bands and theatre from all over the world.
• Spiritus Sanctus read more ›
  (1-13 Ulica Grobla. Tel. 058 320 7019)
  Taking its lead from the nearby St Mary's Cathedral, Spiritus Sanctus wine bar has all the pomp and circumstance of its religious neighbour. Its extended wine list attracts a suited and booted crowd. The entrance is on Ulica Sw Ducha.
• Contrast Cafe read more ›
  (Bulwar Nadmorski, Gdynia. Tel. 050 351 6401)
  Contrast's ship-like interior is home to a raucous crowd, who use the regular sea shanty and Irish folk music concerts as an excuse to drink the bar dry.
• The Donegal read more ›
  (10 Ulica Zgoda, Gdynia. Tel. 58 620 4623)
  The area's most authentic Irish pub, thankfully bereft of shamrocks but blessed with a young and lively crowd, as well as live Irish and folk music.
• Cafe Jazz Scena read more ›
  (26 Ulica Bema, Gdynia. Tel. 69 562 1147)
  In a city that loves its jazz, one of the biggest and best places to catch a concert is the refreshingly laid-back Scena.
• Puzon read more ›
  (16 Ulica Morska, Sopot. Tel. 058 550 4423)
  A wacky maze of darkened rooms filled by a dedicated crowd of boisterous drinkers sunk into the second-hand couches. Just like the opening hours, the frequent jazz nights are unpredictable and it's best to call ahead.

• Chilly Willy's read more ›
  (16 Ulica Jantarowa, Gdansk. Tel. 050 101 1750)
  Its prime seaside location sees this wooden shack packed to the rafters during the summer season, with revellers sipping from plastic glasses 24/7.
• Poklad read more ›
  (Gdynia Skwer Kosciuszki . Tel. 058 660 3431)
  Built like a wooden-style galleon and decorated with nautical nick-nacks, Poklad hosts an eclectic selection of bands and musicians, from head-banging heavy metal to piano concertos.
• Klubowa read more ›
  (1 Maja 3E, Sopot. Tel. 79 001 7412)
  Tucked inside a rundown concrete block, Klubowa is styled on a living room from communist Poland. Luckily, both the music and the student crowd are bang up-to-date.
• Soho read more ›
  (61 Ulica Bohaterow Monte Cassino, Sopot. Tel. 58 551 6927)
  Sopot's club of the moment pulls in a bohemian crowd eager to dance the night away inside this two-level web of rooms.
• Viva Club read more ›
  (2 Al Mamuszki, Sopot. Tel. 058 551 6268)
  A regular haunt for many of the world's top DJs, Viva, boasting a pair of dance floors and outstanding sea views, is considered by many to be the areas premier club.
• Intro read more ›
  (18-19 Ulica Straganiarska, Gdansk. Tel. 0507 117 776)
  This bar's warren of rooms are filled with stylish cocktail drinkers searching for the small and steamy dance floor.

On the Ground

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Tips

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