Venice

The Venice guide is compiled by Roderick Conway Morris


Airport Information

Venice

  • Holiday Taxis (easyJet.holidaytaxis.com) take you from home to the airport, then city or destination.

  • The Alilaguna waterbus leaves from the dock (about 500 metres from Arrivals) from 6.10am-12.10am to Murano, Fondamente Nove, Lido, San Marco; and as far as Zattere from 9.15am-9.15pm. Tickets: €12 (www.alilaguna.it).

  • ACTV yellow bus 5 runs every 30 minutes (15 minutes at peak times) to Piazzale Roma, takes about 20 minutes. Tickets: single €2.50.

  • Visit the Europcar desk on arrival for special easyJet inflight rates.

  • The fare to Piazzale Roma is about €30.

Bon Appetit

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↓ Up to €15
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    (6823 Campo SS Giovanni e Paolo, Castello. Tel. 041 528 5267)
    A perfect spot on this lovely square next to Verrocchio's magnificent 15th-century bronze equestrian statue.
↓ Up to €30
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    (1260 Riva dei Partigiani, Castello. Tel. 041 241 3972)
    Rest your tired feet at the gates of the Biennale Gardens and enjoy a snack or meal with a soothing view over the lagoon.
↓ Up to €50
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    (3728 Calle Larga Priuli, Cannaregio. Tel. 041 523 2629)
    The food has greatly improved at this former bacaro (wine bar) and there's a still a lively young clientèle and good deals at lunchtime.
↓ Exclusive
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    (1911 Calle de le Carampane, San Polo. Tel. 041 524 0165)
    This area was a red-light district (carampane is a Venetian word for prostitute). But the quarter is now eminently respectable and its famous fish trattoria is a local favourite.

After Dark

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↓ Low Key
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    (922 Zattere ai Gesuiti, Dorsoduro. Tel. 041 522 5293 )
    Equally well-known for its ice creams, apéritifs and panoramic view from the deck over the Giudecca Canal.
↓ Live Music
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    (Bauer Hotel, 1459 Campo San Moise, San Marco. Tel. 041 520 7022)
    Guitar music every Friday and Saturday on the hotel's terrace on the Grand Canal.
↓ Late & Lively
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    (3665 Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro. )
    Tiny bar that attracts a nightly crowd of young revellers on the square outside.

This month...

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Shop
  • Mix and match your own strings of glass beads or buy ready-made jewellery from a large selection at Perle e Dintorni (3740 Calle della Mandola, San Marco).
See
  • Watch Venetian oarsmen and women battling it out in a traditional regatta (a Venetian word) at Malamocco on the Lido (12 July) and on the Giudecca Canal (19). The second event forms part of the Redentore festival, when hundreds of boats crowd the water to watch the spectacular fireworks the night before.
Go
  • Fondamente Nove is the continuous quay that runs alongside the northern shore of the city. This is a pleasant place for a summer stroll and from here you can hop on a vaporetto to the peaceful, cypress-shaded cemetery island of San Michele.
Escape
  • Castelfranco Veneto is a pretty little town about an hour away by train, where you can see Giorgione's famous altarpiece in the Duomo and the new Casa Giorgione Museum, devoted to his life and work, at the Renaissance artist's house next door.

Tips

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No way!
  • More than 60 years of Habsburg rule during the 19th century left little impact on the local language. An exception is 'schei', the Venetian slang for money, a shortened version of the Austrian 'scheidemuenze' (small change).

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