PRÊT À PORTER

FOR BAGS OF STYLE, HEAD TO LYON, THE CITY-STOP TO RIVAL PARIS…

WORDS BY JOHN BROWN

If you thought Paris was France’s only shopping utopia, think again. Divided into districts just like arrondissements, Lyon has a stunning city centre to make any fashionista faint. Boulevards lined with haute couture and swanky designer clothes rub shoulders with creations from Lyon’s young silk weavers. Add to that the artisans’s traditional crafts and local ethnic offerings, and you’ll realise that, if you have the energy to hunt, Lyon has the answers.

2ND Shopping around place Bellecour in the centre of the city is made easy because the streets run in a grid-like fashion.

Savvy shoppers will know about the route running from place Bellecour to Jacobin by rues Emile Zola and Gasparin as The Carré d’Or (Golden Square).

Here you’ll find a veritable treasure trove of little shops, such as the colourful world of Benoit Guyot, where those with a penchant for novel, wacky designer homewares can stock up on tantalising must-haves, like an ergonomic pan scrubber or a psychedelic bread bin. Also, don’t leave place Bellecour before stopping off at Badiane. Lyon’s answer to Notting Hill’s Books for Cooks (London) offers a deluge of gastro-literature along with gadgety gifts that will astound even the most weathered foodie. Between rues Edouard Herriot (2nd) and the mile-long rue de la République, you’ll find entrances to quaint arcades, reminiscent of a bygone era. The glass-roofed Passage de l’Argue is full of old-fashioned artisans including milliners (Cartier and Weiss—hats, gloves and scarves) and cutlers, who now share the space with more modern trades.

Discover Jane Aubert and Anne Fontaine for reasonably priced classic chic ladies wear and Spanish designer Massimo Dutti for more bright and festive wear. In the same neighbourhood, along rue Ferrandière, you’ll find a gift for the whisky connoisseur on your list at The Whisky Lodge with a huge collection of drams, covering all four corners of the globe as well as fine crystal decanters in which to serve them. Don’t miss Espace Ferrano (swanky accessories including designer Alessi) and Descamps (linen) on the same street.

4TH Sitting on the slope of Croix Rousse (4th) near to Place Terreaux is Passage Thiaffait (rue René Leynaud). The original location of Lyon’s silk weavers is now home to young creators who turn out original, one-off and somewhat provocative designs. Check Warming waters: from top, fishing boats dock in a village on Lipari island; and taking a dip in the invigorating sulphurated mud on Vulcano island out Beberland, who have created limited ranges of funky yet ugly kids dolls–perfect for anyone who has a little girl to shop for. Sharing the passage are En Bobine Moi (women’s clothes and accessories), Marco Masquita (creative menswear) and Allisa (handmade jewellery). You’ll be sure to find something of a talking point on your return home. From here, head down to rue Romarin and browse La Boutique des Soyeux Lyonnais for local silk designs sold by the metre. Then wend your way up the Croix Rousse plateau where, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, you’ll find a huge street market selling everything from socks to sausages.

6TH Lyon’s 6th district is the chic quarter. Join the ladies that lunch by mooching along the avenues Foch, Roosevelt and Saxe in search of something, or given the price tag, nothing to buy. Don’t expect to bag a bargain here. Le Cedre Rouge (Saxe), with its fabulous window displays, will provide perfect little knick-knacks for garden-lovers as well as a whole first floor dedicated to classic and contemporary soft furnishings, for home-lovers. For alternative and rarer kitchen homeware designs head to rue de Sèze, just around the corner and visit O C BO then treat yourself to something sweet at chocolatier Bernachon on Roosevelt

5TH Rue St Jean (5th) hasn’t changed much since its thriving commercial époque a couple of centuries ago. The cobbled streets run from St Paul train station to the impressive St Jean cathedral, and are a warren of passageways called traboules with a rich and interesting history. Here you’ll find fantastic (if slightly pricey) shops such as Le Capricorne (handmade lamps and sculptures), Le Bois Debout (ancient and contemporary lithography), Chez Disagn’Cardelli (local handmade puppetry with adjoining theatre), Indy Shop (vintage clothing and exotic CD’s) and Mandragore (medieval costumes and quirky jewellery). If you’re feeling peckish, then stick around the Place St Jean, which is crammed full of cheap “Bouchons” offering some real Lyonnaise specialities.

3RD 7TH A stroll over the Pont de la Guillotière (3rd and 7th) from place Bellecour finds you in Lyon’s Asian quarter. Packed with tiny cheap and cheerful ethnic shops, you will find those last-minute gift ideas such as soaps, oils and incense, by venturing into the side streets off the Cours Gambetta. Bhadourain (rue Villeroy) is the place to find some fine French spices and chic cookware, which are all lovingly gift-wrapped. But if it’s your own spice rack you’re looking to top up, then head to Madras Bazaar (rue Sebastien Gryphe), where you’ll pay half the price.

MistiGriff, on avenue Saxe, resembles a jumble sale. Rummage your way through the aisles and marvel at the bargain prices on top names such as Diesel and Mugler. But if it’s something a little more ethnic you’re after, a narguile perhaps (a water pipe) or a tajine or other North African trinket, then wander along rue Marseille and the Grande rue de Guillotière.

9TH If you’ve got an afternoon to spare, take the green line metro in the direction of Vaise and jump off at the Valmy stop (about 10 minutes from Bellecour). Rue de St Cyr (9th) and Grande rue de Vaise are the newest addition to Lyon’s shopping scene: Delpol for designer shoes at low prices, Filanzane for cushions and table cloths and Karma Living for fine Egyptian bed linen and Zen-like living.

All that shopping is hungry and thirsty work, but you are certainly in the right place. Head straight to Bar Valmy, just by the metro station, and you’ll be greeted with a bustly wine shop and restaurant, which is perfect for a home-cooked meal and glass of local rouge.